Hiking Provence Inn-to-Inn

Day 1: Independent transfer from Nice by the little train, Chemins de Fers de Provence, to the small, picturesque village of Annot. This scenic train trip takes about 2 hours. Annot not only has a long, rich history, dating back to 1084, but nearby are unique geological features, les gres of d’Annot – huge sandstone boulders and cliffs that were formed some 40 million years ago. If you arrive early, there is a wonderful half-day hike, the “Chambre du Roi,” which loops around these formations and through an amazing chestnut forest. Welcome dinner and area orientation.

Day 2: Annot to Castellane: From Annot, we transfer to St. Andre les Alpes, from where we will begin the hike to Castellane. This isolated trail follows paths high above the western side of the Lac de Castillon. Part of this hike will be on jeep roads, through forests, and on high overlooks. This is a varied day of hiking. We meet our van at the tiny hamlet of La Baume for transfer to Castellane.

Set alongside the northern end of the Verdon River, the village of Castellane is known as the gateway to the Verdon Gorge region. This strikingly picturesque village is nestled beneath a high rock promontory crowned by the chapel Notre Dame du Roc, Our Lady of the Rock. Shops, hotels, and appealing cafes border the leafy town square, where locals gather to play boules. Narrow lanes wind through the cozy village interior leading to fountains, tiny shops, boulangeries, and boucheries. Castellane has been inhabited since before Roman times and evidence of these early settlers is still visible.

Elevation gain: 1,680’; Elevation loss: 875’; Distance: about 7 miles; Time: 4 – 5 hours.

Day 3: Castellane to Point Sublime: Departing Castellane, we hike through what some guidebooks refer to as “the most dramatic and natural scenery in all of France.” The scenery is impressive. The limestone and rock outcroppings rise up in pinnacles, while the Verdon River flows below. The trail takes us by picturesque gardens, abandoned farms and high plateaus. We end our day with a descent to the town of Rougon and then to our hotel in Point Sublime. Rougon, with its red-roofed houses perched along the hillside, is situated right on the edge of the Gorges of Verdon.

Elevation gain: 1,752’; Elevation loss: 1,627’; Distance: 11.5 miles; Time: 6 hours.

Day 4: Point Sublime to Moustiers St. Marie: Today’s hike takes us down into the Gorges du Verdon, through tunnels, up ladders, and along the river. This hike is more strenuous than the other days, as it involves steep ascents and descents, hiking through tunnels (some of which are dark, so bring your flashlights) and a long set of ladders with 240 steps to ascend. These ladders have handrails on either side and are more like steep stairs. Ending our hike at La Maline, we will then have a short transfer to our hotel in Moustiers St. Marie. This is a dramatic, stunning hike.

Elevation gain: 2,290’; Elevation loss: 1,950’; Distance: 10 miles; Time: 6½ – 7 hours.

Day 5: Rest Day: Known as the village of “Faience” (pottery), Moustiers was an important center of pottery during the 17th and 18th centuries until the demand for English china and porcelain increased so much that the “pottery fires eventually died out.” Thanks to the influence of Marcel Provence in the late 1900s, the fires have been rekindled, and today there are numerous pottery workshops in Moustiers. Be sure to save some room in your pack for a few items! Dinner on your own.

Day 6: Moustiers St. Marie to Céreste: A shorter hiking day will take us from Moustiers to Riez. This will allow time for browsing around both interesting villages. On today’s hike, the landscape changes dramatically as we descend from the mountains and begin to hike across open plains. With the mountains serving as a backdrop, our trail leads us by oak forests, busy encouraging the growth of truffles, as well as through lavender and poppy fields. The Roman village of Riez is said to be the oldest town in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and is somewhat bypassed by tourism.

From Riez we will transfer by private van across the Plateau de Valensole and then the Durance River to the small village of Céreste, where we spend two nights.

Céreste is a Roman-era village on the very edge of the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence and just inside the Parc Naturel du Luberon. The village has an air of rustic authenticity with its main street shaded by ancient plane trees and lined with shops and cafes. While wandering its narrow interior streets remnants of medieval fortifications can still be seen as well as examples of various architectural styles dating back to the 13th century. Bordered by fields to the east and the Luberon mountain range to the south, Céreste remains a quiet village.

Elevation gain: 1,000’; Elevation loss: 1,330’; Distance: 10 miles; Time: 4½ – 5 hours.

Day 7: Day hike around Céreste – Prieré de Carluc and Monjustin
Our hike today begins by following a section of the pilgrimage route, the Santiago de Compostela, to a Romanesque bridge spanning the little Encrême River and leading to the impressive ruins of the 11th-century Carluc Priory and its 12th-century Saint-Pierre church. Continuing from the priory, our hike leads up to the little hilltop fortified hamlet of Montjustin. Its 11th-century ramparts are still visible and offer a great picnic spot with a view. From the ridge, there are beautiful views of the Grand Lubéron to the south and to the north over the Aiguebelle and Encrême Valleys. Our day ends back at our gite in the village of Céreste.

Elevation gain: 1,207’; Elevation loss: 1,243’; Distance: 9 miles; Time: 4½ – 5 hours.

Day 8: Grand Luberon to Roussillon:  Short transfer to the trailhead for the Grand Luberon. Though not a high Alp, the hiking on the Grand Luberon is rewarding and a bit demanding hike as we gain steady elevation to reach the crest. As we hike along the crest-line of this grand mountain we’ll have 360-degree views. On a clear day, we can see as far as the Mediterranean. After reaching Le Mourre Nègre, the highest point of the Grand Luberon, we descend steeply to Saignon. From Saignon we’ll transfer to the village of Roussillon.

Roussillon is a perfectly picturesque Provencal village, with its narrow streets and all the buildings painted in varying hues of the ochre. The ochre was once mined in the area, and is evidenced in the nearby cliffs beautifully striated in colors ranging from pale yellows, oranges to deep reds and everything in between. The inhabitants of the area began mining ochre in prehistoric times and by the 19th century export of the ochre dust was considerable. The onset of synthetic dyes put the ochre mines out of business. The effects of this mining have made for some very interesting rock formations. If there’s time, a walk through the “Sentier des Ocres”, the old mining area, and beneath these impressive cliffs is well worth it.

Elevation gain: 1,850’; Elevation loss: 2,300’; Distance: 12.5 miles; Time: 6½ – 7 hours.

Day 9: Saint Saturnin-les-Apt to Roussillon: Short transfer to Saint-Saturnin-lès-Apt for walk to Roussillon. This quiet and unassuming village is full of history dating back to Roman times. Its old church and fortress and quaint narrow streets are enjoyable to stroll. Time and crowds have left this town relatively untouched.

Today’s walk to Roussillon leads through vineyards, olive groves, almond trees, forests, open fields, and down grassy lanes. The view, across the Luberon valley and all the way to the rounded humps of the Grand Luberon, is lovely. The spectacular ochre cliffs greet us as we near Roussillon. It is a stunning hike.

Elevation gain: 984’; Elevation loss: 1,180’; Distance: 9 miles; Time: 4 hours.

Day 10: Transfer to Marseille Airport:  Depart Roussillon after breakfast at about 8:30 am arriving at the Marseille Airport at about 10:30 am. There are frequent shuttle buses from the airport to the TGV station in Aix en Provence, where you can take a train to other parts of France. A direct train to Paris departs from the TGV station in Aix en Provence for those who plan to travel to Paris.